Yesterday’s slow puncture was caused by a tiny fracture in the valve stem. Tube replaced by a spare, manual pumping is good for one. Last night I’d managed to travel the last 25km with help from the splendid roadside puncture repair guys, not one would take any money, one offered me a mighty hit on his bong.
received yet more friend and family bad news. My cousin Tom died of a sudden heart attack aged but sixty two.
Leaving the lacklustre and dirty hotel in a cool pea-souper with my screen shattered laptop (yesterday’s rocky tracks) I headed out for the longest planned ride yet to a great looking resort in the middle of nowhere.
I was soon on the coast, the surf sounds gave the game away. Again a long open wide empty road. Ignoring the ridewithgps advice I found an empty old concrete road close to the sea which went on and on plus no dogs or honking cars but a few happy ruminants. Rwgps was going ape, the map showed a long peninsular with a dead end then an estuary rwgps of course wanted the long way round, this possible new road once again too recent and unfinished to be on available maps. Yet there was massive road construction heading north towards me. No one surely would build a tarmac 4 lane elevated (flood defence?) roadway starting from nothing – would it have a bridge yet?
Three ladies cutting forage assured me (I thought) the road crossed the nuoc / water. They also offered me food which was touching.
The bridge had been tarred, getting off to photo and get over the metalwork toothy junctions was a sticky affair. I recall Hastings pebbly beach, mum always took margarine to remove the inevitable tar lumps dropped by passing boats. It also had an intriguing sewage tunnel to explore while mum was reading a book.
After the bridge, and again ignoring the lost route squawking I made my way back to the original shoreside road. Trees, fields, surf and occasional cafes and not yet sunny made for a great ride
Fish farming was on a monumental scale, the lagoons contain devices to make the water circulate. Lots of shrimps being dried on the roadside, waiter there’s grit in my meal. Having no sense of smell was beneficial on this stretch.
Many local fishing boats and I saw my first motorised rigid coracle. Happy days indeed. 1230 I need to eat, the hotel’s breakfast was scant and a very noisy Korean slurping noodles did not help. Being low season the Bun n Pho places were all shut so I gorged slightly on candy and fruit.
As the sun got hotter I was tiring and at 1330 with 65km left I found a welcome tasty lunch in a spotless roadside cafe. Nice chat with dear Miss Giang xx. 200m from a large high bridge.
Ignoring rwgps’ attempts to route me around towns n fields on old concrete I carried on with the main road, again wide and relatively empty. Headwind knocked me down from an easy 22 kph to 14 or less. I went through a town to escape it and get a caffeine lift. All shut! A nice church with a welcome chocolate Just one Cornetto.
Time for true grit keep those legs pumping. As the sun was going down I saw a busy tavern, an oasis of pleasure 16km left but on quiet country mud roads but needs must. I did my creaking gait John Wayne walk and got 2 “beers” served by two of the charming bar maids. Based on a guys comments it may have been a pickup joint as well. I told the drunken twat the girls looked young enough to be his daughters.
I finally arrived safely with headlamps on full beam. A massive empty resort, and the food was eye wateringly expensive. Spare ribs with garlic fried pumpkin did the trick and were excellent. Imagine no cold beer ffs and an empty fridge. Cold box and ice plus patience paid off. Staff were having a party haha no guests, the receptionist gave me rather tasty local whisky in a coffee cup.
After 12 or more years of abuse my offside and favourite ortlieb pannier lost a Tor screw. All nuts tightened now but missing one.
Nice room and premises with the surf outside the bedroom window.
Off to find new laptop and a roadside motorbike mechanic for new ortlieb bolt. Bit of a rest day, no route planned.
A placeholder. Editing on a phone is tricky